Exmouth

There was little doubt that Exmouth was in the middle of nowhere based on the views from our flight in. The impression was further confirmed on the shuttle from the airport to the town. We were pleased with our booked accommodation which seemed to be conveniently located amongst what little Exmouth had to offer (I must add that it was obvious the town was growing!). We checked in with the dive center to be sure we would be prepared for the big event. Bright and early the morning of, we met up with the other divers at the center, sized up for our gear, and loaded up the bus for our transit to the water. There were approximately twenty people to be on board including the guides. The first activity of the day was a dive at the Ningaloo Reef. Most of the people on board were diving so we split up into two groups and slowly explored the underwater world. The reef was beautiful although there were indications that it was dying. We saw tons of colorful fish and swam through an underwater reef tunnel. It was very cool and turned out to be the deepest, longest dive we had done so far! 
Swimming with the Whale Sharks was limited to snorkeling only and was set up very differently than the Great White Shark dive had been. With the Great Whites, the sharks were beckoned in with tasty bait and the cages were available at leisure. The Whale Sharks were found by a spotter plane and once news was broadcast to their location, all the touring operators in the area raced to the site. It was an assembly line of boats and swimmers as 10 people were dumped into the water at “Go! Go! Go!”. The snorklers relocated themselves as quickly as possible in line with the oncoming shark. Once it started to swim past, the snorkler’s followed, attempting to keep pace with the large animal. Their ability to do so depended on how fast the shark was swimming and how long you swam with them depended on how far ahead the next set of 10 snorklers were waiting. Once you reached the next party, you were to stop and wait with your group for the boat to pick you up and move you to the beginning of the line again. This went on until you got bored with the shark or the shark got bored with you and dove down. We saw four sharks in all, ranging from approximately seven to nine meters each. The first was the most enjoyable since it was nice and slow and in shallow water so even when it chose to dive deeper you could still see it. We also shared the water with a sea turtle and a ray on this swim and some of the other operators were lured away by other sitings so we had a longer swimming time. Much less, rush! Rush! Rush!
We ended the day with a snorkel at the reef again in an area that was much shallower and seemed much more alive. It was a lot of fun to float in the current. We started swimming against it (as is always advised) and then lazily floated back without effort while watching the reef floor glide past.
Unfortunately, I didn’t get any pictures of anything throughout the day because my camera casing failed on our dive and my camera didn’t survive the drowning. We did purchase the DVD from the day and hope to pull some pictures off of that to post.
Our last full day on R&R was basically in bed. ;) We had scheduled an extra day in Exmouth as backup for the Whale Shark Dive. Since there wasn’t a lot of activity to do in the area we spent it being lazy. ;) We sat outside reading and sunning for a while and then spent the afternoon lounging in the air conditioner. 

Queenstown

Queenstown ranked right up there with Nelson as our favorite areas visited within New Zealand. We were really happy that we had dedicated extra time to the city. The weather was much chillier than we had experienced elsewhere and the mountains surrounding the town were snowcapped by the morning. We had spent our first evening strolling through town considering our options and parroozing the various local shops. We found some charming restaurants that lured us for later meals and visited the tour operator to plan an upcoming trip to Milford Sound. Our hosts warned us of inclemate weather for the next few days so we planned our trip to Milford Sound early and hoped for the best. Our intent was to fly there and back and then enjoy the fjord via a cruise. The host’s warning was correct and our first booking was rain checked. The rescheduled tour ended up on an unexpected lovely day. We were thrilled that we had taken the flight option rather than the coach option. Not only was the transit more than four hours shorter each way but we got the birds eye view of the Southern Alps. We had hoped to visit Mt. Cook while we were in Queenstown as well but the poor weather scared us off the winding mountain roads. We figured it was better safe than sorry. Last thing we needed was our rental in the ditch just to see the highest point of New Zealand! We did manage to take the gondola up a nearby mountain (I believe one of the Remarkables) and enjoyed the view over a couple glasses of wine/beer. We experienced the luge ride the area is known for and then road back down. That was the most adrenaline I had been able to convince Mike of. I had fancied the idea of bungy jumping (Queenstown is the birthplace after all) but there was no swaying his determination against it. I must admit, I wasn’t overly disappointed. Free falling with all bets on a springy rope sounds rather intimidating.
We were rather amused on the morning of our departure from New Zealand when the news reported the Perth International Airport was closed down due to a suspicious package. That was the airport we were flying into so we were wondering whether we would be making it to Exmouth in time for our Whale Shark Dive. It was only a few hours delay in Auckland before were were on our way. Fortunately, most of the night prior had been spent dealing with the situation and we caught it on the tail end.

Greymouth – Queenstown

It was a dreary morning when we departed Greymouth. It had rained much of the evening and the rain followed us as we drove towards Glacier country. Our destination for the day was Fox Glacier; selected for its convenient location between Greymouth and Queenstown. On the way, we planned to stop at Hokitika, a town known for its local shopping. ;) We found a few items including what ended up being our anniversary gift to each other, a glass blown vase! (We shipped it home so heads up mom! :)
The rainfall did not spoil the views along the way. After Hokitika, the road took us through Franz-Josef Glacier first. The small town looked very much like a ski resort town with the main street lined with outdoor shops and cafes. We detoured off the highway to check out the glacier via a hike on a well maintained tramping trail. Unfortunately, the weather didn’t cooperate. We walked away from the hike drenched and without decent pictures. It was a short drive to Fox Glacier which was slightly less developed than Franz-Josef. We hooked ourselves up with a room and a warm meal and then settled in for a lazy afternoon including wine, loungewear, a good book, and a comfortable couch.
The rain was relentless. When we emerged from our room the next morning, it was still going…We stopped in a café for a decent breakfast and then left the poor weather behind as we crossed the mountains on our way to Queenstown. The drive reminded us of Scotland. We immediately found suitable accommodation, raided the local supermarket, and considered our plans for the upcoming days. This would serve as our base until we departed for Australia.

Nelson – Greymouth

The three hour ferry ride took us from Wellington to Picton. It was pleasant especially since the rental car company had booked us in luxury (I wonder if we paid extra for that?) We were in a special cabin with free food and beverages, comfortable lounge chairs, splendid views, and separation from most of the other passengers. I took advantage of the quiet time and read my book while Mike switched between taking pictures and watching/listening to his Zune.
Upon arrival, we immediately hit the road again with destination, Nelson, programmed in our TomTom. (The TomTom had been behaving much better since our arrival, with the only irritation being it doesn’t necessarily find the satellite right away when we turn it on. I wonder if that has something to do with New Zealand’s location on the globe?) It directed us on a ‘short cut’ which took us on a windy scenic tour of the northwest coastline. I’m sure it would have been quicker than the highway if I could maneuver the hairpin turns at the designated speed limit of 100 kph. Realistically, it was more like 25 - 45 kph and Mike was still complaining of an upset stomach partway through. The views were awesome and the drive was thrilling so I didn’t mind.
A couple hours later we landed in Nelson. Immediately the city appealed to us. We took a quick driving tour of the area before settling on a motel at the entrance to the city center. We booked for one evening and then began walking into town to grab an afternoon snack. Over a sampling of breads and dips we discussed our afternoon and following day’s plans and easily decided we wanted to stick to the area for an extra day. We lazily wandered back to the motel, picking up some locals wines on the way, and then stopped at Reception to extend our reservation.
We made dinner plans at a local seafood restaurant located on the marina based on recommendations made by our host. The food and atmosphere did not disappoint and topped the day off nicely. We slept in the next morning and dragged ourselves out of bed with intent to visit the outdoor market and area wineries. We spent much longer than we should have wandering the neighborhoods in search of the acclaimed market before finally stopping at a gasstation to inquire to its location. (I thought I had a general idea based on our guide’s description). Unfortunately, the day’s weather had canceled it (it was rainy) so there would be no market (no wonder I couldn’t find it!). At least we can say we thoroughly toured the city. 
We went to the Grape Escape to taste some wines. It was Mike and my first winery tasting so we weren’t quite sure what the procedure was. I must say, it’s much more straight forward with Breweries. With breweries you walk in, buy a ticket, they give you a tour, tell you how the beer is brewed and then you use up your tickets on glasses of beer. The winery was not as obvious. We eventually figured out that we pay per taste. You select the wines to taste with the host and your selection is limited to those bottles opened. Should you choose to buy a bottle, the tasting is free. We enjoyed the activity especially the conversation with the hostess who was an immigrant from Italy, and did walk away with a few bottles of wine. Mike even figured out that he is a fan of Riesling wines.
Our next plans took us to Greymouth with a quick stop in Punakaiki along the way. Our host in Rotorua had strongly recommended we make a point to stop at the Pancake Rocks in the area. The rock formations are layers of limestone formed by the ocean that include blowholes that come alive at high tide. Unfortunately, our timing was off so we could not see the blow holes in action but the view was still awesome. We made our way onwards to Greymouth in time to go on a tour of the Montieth’s brewery. The tour ended with tastings of their famous brews and a quick trip through the gift shop. We of course, could not walk away empty handed.
We booked a hotel for the evening and spent the afternoon discovering just how empty Greymouth was in the fall/winter months. The city was deserted. The shops were closing early and hardly any restaurants were open for dinner. We ended up finding one, ate, and then retired to our room. Tomorrow, we’ll continue in the general direction of Queenstown.

More New Zealand News

We're sitting in Wellington now with plans to take the early ferry to the South Island tomorrow. We've spent the last couple days breezing through the North Island. My birthday was spent driving from Whangarei to Rotorua, a good five hour drive. We were welcomed to the city by a lovely sulfur smell associated to the strong thermal activity in the area. We booked a hotel with a spa in the city and spent the evening strolling the area and relaxing in the spa. I picked up some local mud to smear on my face (it's supposed to be good for the pores!) and some yummy gourmet pizza for dinner. It was a nice birthday evening.

Today, we drove another six hours to Wellington. The drive didn't seem quite as long as it was. The scenery changed drastically as we drove, beginning lush and green with sporadic clouds of steam rising from the ground, to baron and brown, and then back to green again. Both drives were fun with narrow winding roads (on the other side of the road!) and huge changes in elevation. I'm enjoying it.

It was a holiday today so a lot was closed. We did manage to complete some window shopping. I was hoping to pick up some short sleeved tops while we were on leave but it doesn't seem likely. It's nearing Winter here so the trend is going long sleeved. Bummer.

Tomorrow, it's bright and early to rise so we can make the crossing to the South Island. All who we've met along the way say that the South Island IS New Zealand. Thus the reason why we burned through the North Island so quickly once we completed our SCUBA certification. I think the plan is we'll spend a night in Blenheim/Nelson, continue on to Greymouth, spend the night and hit the Monteith's brewery, continue on towards Queenstown (staying somewhere in between) and then use Queenstown as a base while we visit Mt. Cook, the Sounds, and other neighboring attractions. We've met quite a few Kiwi's that insist Queenstown is the place to be AND that's where we're flying out of...so why not :)

We're Certified!

Today was our last day of certification and we passed! Woohoo! We spent the last two days diving; yesterday at some nearby lakes and today at Poor Knights Islands. The underwater scenery was b-e-a-u-t-i-f-u-l. It was a lot of fun! AND it gave us a nifty difty card that says we can just rent and dive rather than dealing Discovery Dives. Should save us time and money.

We've followed some recommendations from our SCUBA Trainer and dined at some awesome restaurants. Last night, it was pizza on the water at Revas...and tonight...juicy steaks at Bulls on Bank. Yummmm. Thumbs up for both. Great service and great food. The only draw back for both was it was really busy (probably because of their great reputation!) so the noise and wait was understandably greater. ;)

Tomorrow, we'll be heading towards Rotorua - hopefully to play in the mud! :) A day spa sounds like a nice birthday treat! :)

I don't know if and when I'll have internet again! Till next time!

First Day of SCUBA Certification

Today was the first day of class which was intended to introduce us to the basics of SCUBA diving in a controlled environment: an indoor pool. The most difficult part was swimming 25 laps which was the first activity of class. Neither Mike or I are regular swimmers so I'm sure it was amusing watching us 'struggle' through the lengthy swim. Since we've completed five previous dives, most of the day was a review of skills we've previously mastered. We finished the class playing some underwater catch games using a weighted torpedo and completing an overview quiz.

Since the class released us later than anticipated, we were unable to spend the afternoon touring the area (we had been horsing around quite a bit and took a long lunch). Instead, we stopped at a nearby store for some beer and wine, cleaned up at the hotel, and then went out to dinner at a nearby restaurant. Mike purchased Cascade Stout which he highly recommends.

My review: Go for the food, not the service

Restaurant: Gybe
Atmosphere: Pleasant; dimmed lighting with a stunning view of the harbour (dependent on the provided seating)
Tables/Waiter-Waitress: Six tables filled; 3 serving waitresses
General Review: The food was very tasty; unfortunately, the service spoiled it. The menu was short and made shorter by omissions and alterations explained by the waitress. Actually two waitress since two visited and explained them. My first choice was later declared also unavailable. My side was provided and charged as an appetizer and then again as a side. My soup was provided without a spoon. My wine, my water, and Mike's water were drank by me without any offer for a refill of any of the above. Last but not least, we had to chase down the waitress to request the bill. Fortunately, the snapper Mike ordered and the chowder I ordered were delicious otherwise we would have left as very disappointed customers.

Land of the Kiwi's!

I gave us an extra day in Whangarei so we would have a day to unwind and explore before our SCUBA class began. It was a good thing I did because now the extra day was used as make up. A severe sandstorm rolled in over night preventing our departure from Baghdad International Airport. We spent much of the day with our fingers crossed hoping our airline wouldn’t give up. The view through the window teased us with occasional let ups but by mid afternoon, it was clear we weren’t going to be leaving soon. The day ended with our heads bowed in disappointment as we hitched a ride back to our camp. I spent the evening revising our reservations and cleaning off the sand from my clothes and body by doing a quick load of laundry and showering. Why is it we can never get out without SOMETHING going wrong?
We managed to convince our ride to pick us up earlier than usual the following morning. The airport is horrible the day following a airport closing as all the delayed passengers try to make up for lost time by getting out on the earliest flight possible. Many people actually camp out inside the airport just so they don’t lose their spot in line. Despite leaving for the evening, our timing worked out and we made it through. We also flew on a different airline than usual. I have to give it a thumbs up. It was the last airline to cancel their flights during the sand storm and the overall service was decent. The only odd thing was that we weren’t actually assigned seats. It was a first come, first serve policy. We did get seats together but there were quite a few people who were not amused at the lack of organization on seating.
This was our first time actually leaving the Dubai airport during transit. We were welcomed by long lines through passport control (to be expected) and crowds of people waiting for their loved ones to leave the airport. It was not a pleasant exit. There wasn’t a clear path to the taxi area so we had to shove through the masses.
A relatively short taxi ride later, we were relaxing in a decent hotel at the heart of the city. The modern architecture on the way was stunning. I had hoped that we would spend part of the afternoon walking the city.  Wouldn’t you know it. We got lazy and spent the afternoon lounging. Haha. Maybe next time.
Our flight to Auckland went well but it was soooooo long. We had two stops on the way that required us to disembark and then reload a half hour to and hour later. It was a nice opportunity to stretch the legs and visit with the security folks as they dug through our carry on belongings.
First stop upon arrival was the car rental office. We ended up with a nice rental. I had also loaded our TomTom with the New Zealand map prior to our trip so while Mike set up the TomTom, I wandered in the correct general direction. This ended up being a little frustrating as the TomTom decided not to play nice and my instinct for direction started to fail on me. It was easy when all the roads seemed to be main route but once it all went to residental..I didn’t have the slightest inclination which way was correct. We eventually conceded to looking at the map, plotted our general course and then Mike began trouble shooting the TomTom some more. Eventually, he got it working (Phew!) but there is still something funky going on. I will have to look at it later.

Our drive took us to Whangarei by early evening and the views along the way were stunning. (Had we been more motivated, we would have been snapping pictures left and right.......) We sat down for a decent dinner at the hotel and settled into our hotel room. We managed to get Mike all that he wanted in the room: cleanliness, a balcony, and a mini bar. Since we no longer have the full day of downtime, tomorrow we’ll be hopping right into our PADI Open Water Diver Course. Woohoo!
Good night!